"Crazy Russian": how a visit to Colombia changed Denis Bagaev's perception of "proper" coffee

"He was dubbed the 'crazy Russian' in the coffee region of Colombia for his willingness to do the hardest work just to learn everything about coffee. Denis Bagaev is the sole importer of Colombian beans in the North Caucasus. For him, it's not just a business, but a whole philosophy. The aroma from each cup is unique, tickling the tip of the nose. Although for coffee enthusiasts, distinguishing the hybrid 'PacaMara' with hints of red orange and chocolate, let alone differentiating it from the rare 'Pink Bourbon' in natural processing, is practically impossible. Under the coffee 'hat' lies a whole potpourri of Arabica varieties. Straight from Colombia to Vladikavkaz thanks to Denis Bagaev's efforts. Ten years ago, he set off to the South American country to immerse himself in its culture. Neither stereotypes, nor the knowledge that the tourist route is not the most popular – after all, it's the country of Pablo Escobar – nor 14 flights could deter the traveler from Ossetia. It was a chance that led him to the coffee region. Denis Bagaev, company CEO: 'I had bought a tour to a volcano, a six-day tour. After that tour, I was returning to Bogota and then back home. But I realized that if I don't see coffee now, when will I have such an opportunity again? I just tore up the plane ticket, tore up the tour, and got on a regular bus, and that's how I reached the city of Armenia. For many, it will be a surprise, but the capital of coffee in Colombia is the city of Armenia. Just seeing a coffee plantation, I was called 'loco russo,' I just approached and in broken language said that I wanted to learn about coffee, can I stay here for three days, carrying sacks, buckets. I understood that time was running out for me, and I needed to learn something about coffee. And he hosted me at his home for three days. That's how I got acquainted with coffee. I arrived during the flowering season, there was an incredible jasmine scent, that's when I shot my first video from the plantation, from the farm. And just 8 days later, I returned to Russia with 12 kilograms of coffee.' Today, Denis Bagaev knows everything about this drink, and even considers Colombia his second home. The mountainous country appealed to the 'crazy Russian,' as did the traditional craft, usually a family affair, practiced by many generations there. Denis is the only importer of Colombian coffee in the North Caucasus. But for him, it's not just a business, and coffee itself is not just a drink. It embodies a whole philosophy that not everyone can understand. Denis Bagaev, company CEO: 'I have one winged phrase, I always say that coffee is an invisible thread that brings all people together. And it's true, I am a living example of this. Thanks to coffee, I have contacts in Jamaica, the Dominican Republic, Bolivia, Peru, Amsterdam. Coffee unites us all. "You don't just drink coffee with anyone" – they say that too.' Only true coffee lovers can discern the difference between the principles of 'coffee to go,' which has long become mainstream in the republic, and 'real coffee.' Although in North Ossetia, the drink has long been a favorite for many. However, such love seems unreal to those accustomed not to mix or dilute it. This was the first thing that caught the attention of Eymar Colasos. He is in Vladikavkaz for the second time at the invitation of Denis Bagaev. His family in Colombia has been growing and producing coffee for many years. The Ossetian landscape and national cuisine pleasantly surprise him, but the way coffee is consumed – not so much. Eymar Colasos: 'The region where I live is called Huila – the most famous region that produces coffee of the highest quality. I am amazed that in Ossetia, coffee is drunk with sugar. This is bad because real coffee doesn't need sugar. Why do you do that? Our coffee grows at a high altitude of 1800-1900 meters, it is famous worldwide, people come from all over the world during the harvest to export coffee to their countries. Ordinary people drink low-quality coffee, as the best coffee is exported.' Denis Bagaev, company CEO: 'Unfortunately, young people don't understand what real coffee is. For them, it's usually a cup to go, diluted with milk, with cream drinks. It's no longer coffee, it's already a drink. You just need to understand that coffee is the healthiest drink in the world, but in its pure form. When we add sugar or milk, it turns into a drink. It's just tasty. But in reality, under this sauce hides the coffee itself, which is almost non-existent. I'm talking about quality. 'Coffee to go' does not imply selling high-quality coffee. In my opinion, there should be specialty coffee shops in the city, purely coffee points, where interesting offerings should be made so that people understand that besides Arabica and Robusta varieties sold worldwide, there are many varieties in Arabica. People should understand what coffee is like in Africa, in South America, in Southeast Asia. It's important to understand that each country has its own coffee-drinking traditions.' He doesn't teach anyone how to do it right, but only tells how it's done in countries along the equator, where the famous invigorating beans are grown. Every time Denis Bagaev returns home, he conducts such tastings. And after them, many people's attitudes towards coffee change. This magic has been happening for hundreds of years, and although it's based on the subjectivity of taste receptors, every time it's worth brewing a fragrant drink. Brewed in a cezve, filter coffee, or just poured with boiling water, but always from the center to the walls of the cup... The method of preparation is personal preference, what's important is to give the drink a chance. If love at first sip doesn't happen, there's no need to worry because you should try it twice. Denis Bagaev didn't even have to try for mutual love, the aroma – that's what first captured his heart. And it seems, forever."

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